Blueprint copies are an inexpensive way to create personalized, large art for your home, but they can also encourage creativity and help develop those fine motor skills at the same time. I made this dry erase poster for my daughter to enjoy after she showcased her first wall mural last week. It was lovely but we're renters and are two weeks away from moving out! I knew I needed to continue to encourage her artistic tendencies in a way that would still help us get our security deposit back, so I started scheming.
Supplies: -printed photo -access to a blueprint printer at a major copy shop -dry erase markers -washi tape -poster putty
I decided we'd start with a fun little photoshoot with her dressed to the nines in her favorite princess accessories. I didn't have to twist her arm for this part at all. I then loaded my photo onto my Mac with iPhoto and exported it to Photoshop. I converted it to black and white using the A Beautiful Mess actions and printed it out on my home printer.
Next I took it to my local Kinko's and got help printing it on a blueprint sized printer. Then I had it laminated on glossy laminate. I then attached it to my wall using poster putty and added washi tape to the corners just because it's pretty. Do you really need a good reason to use washi tape? You really don't.
I talked to Ruby about using these special dry erase markers on the poster and ONLY on the poster. I also showed her how easily they wiped off with a tissue so that she understood she could enjoy drawing on it, but also easily change something she didn't like. It takes a lot of frustration out of the process when a kid knows they can fix something if they don't like how it turned out.
We worked on the first one together, and then I made her a special drawing while she was occupied in another room as a surprise. She loved having fairy wings and seeing how easy it was to not only color in her clothes but to add on to the picture as well.
We used a tissue to fix mistakes and change colors, but I think we might just keep a pretty wash cloth nearby from now on so we don't end up with wadded tissue all over the floor.
After letting a drawing stay on overnight, I noticed the Office Depot markers wiped off quite easily, but the Expo markers needed the Windex to sit on it a bit longer before it wiped off. My suggestion would be to have your little artist wipe it down at the end of each day it's used for it to last the longest if you're using the Expo brand markers.
Sometimes all it takes is a trip to the copy store to buy yourself and your littles a few hours of fun! What kind of fun photo shoot would you dream up before printing out your own blueprint? -Rachel
Welcome back to Crochet Basics! We've covered how to get started and read a pattern, how to make a slip knot and foundation chain, and now you're ready to learn some stitches! Once you learn how to crochet these basic stitches, you can start making a fabric! You'll be equipped to try many beginner crochet patterns, such as blankets, scarves, and much more!
Single Crochet Stitch (sc)
To start Row 1, take your foundation chain in your hand (the one that's not holding the hook), and insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Pull the yarn through the stitch so that you have two loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull the yarn through both of those loops. Voila! Once you've completed a row, chain 1 (ch 1) and turn your work over. To start the next row, insert your hook under the first stitch and continue making sc stitches. The stitches look like little v's, and you want to insert the hook under both strands of yarn in the v, not into th v like you would insert into the stitch on the foundation chain when making Row 1. Remember to ch 1 at the end of every row before turning your work to start the next row.
Half Double Crochet Stitch (dc)
A half double crochet stitch (hdc) produces a tight fabric, and is in between the height of single crochet (sc) and double crochet (dc). To start, yarn over and insert your hook into the first stitch on the row (or into the 3rd chain from your hook). Pull the yarn up through the stitch so you have 3 loops of yarn on your hook. To complete the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops. Before turning your work for the next row, chain 2 (ch 2) when working in hdc. To start the next row, insert your hook into the 3rd chain from your hook, which should be the last stitch from row 1.
To show you the difference in height of the stitches, here are some swatches. The far left is 9 rows of sc, the next swatch is 6 rows of hdc, then 5 rows of double crochet (dc), and far right is 3 rows of treble crochet (tc). Slip Stitch (sl st)
Slip stitches are used when you want to move across the row without adding height, and are the shortest of all crochet stitches. It's more of a technique than a stitch. They are also used to secure stitches to make a round. They can be used in seams, and for joining two crocheted fabrics. To create a sl st, insert hook, yarn over and pull through the stitch as well as the loop that's on your hook. So the stitch is made in one motion... yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop all at once.
Practice these stitches and make some rows, then you'll be ready to learn double & treble crochet! -Holly
Credits // Author: Holly Neufeld, Photography: Sarah Rhodes. Video: Jeremy Larson. Photos edited with A Beautiful Mess actions.
I love using textural backgrounds when taking styled photos of food, DIY projects, and other fun things I do as a blogger. A textured table adds so much interest to a simple setup, and when done right, won't pull attention from the subject. But not all of us have gorgeous textured tables in our homes, and if you're like me, you might get tired of shooting all of your photos on the same ol' dining room table.
When I started blogging for A Beautiful Mess, I whipped up a textural white backdrop that I really enjoy using to photograph many of my projects, particularly the process shots. I love how the white bounces light so nicely, and I really enjoy the clean, airy feeling that a light background lends to a photo. The problem with white backgrounds though, is that they can easily make a photo feel cold and lack interest. I usually don't want my photos to look like sterile catalog images, so I steer clear of using plain white foam board or poster board to style my photos. The background that I had been using has some texture to it, but I recently decided it would be nice to have an even more textural backdrop to inject extra warmth in my photos— particularly for the upcoming holiday season!
This textural photography backdrop is pretty easy to make, and if you're a food blogger, DIY blogger, or photographer, it's an invaluable prop to have! Check out how I made it below.
Supplies: -planks of wood (I made my old one with pallet wood, and this one with 3 1" x 6" x 8' cedar planks cut into 36" lengths.) -2 long planks of lightweight wood long enough to reach across the planks of wood (I had 1 1" x 2" x 8' plank of pine cut in half for this.) -wood stain (optional) -paint -petroleum jelly (not pictured) -screws
Tools: -power drill -drill bits and countersink bit (optional) -paint brush -metal spatula -sandpaper in 80-120 grit (optional) -paper towels or a rag (not pictured)
This project can be made according to whatever size you need. Food photographers could get by with a smaller board, but I needed a larger board for my projects. You can use less boards and make them longer instead of several shorter boards like I did, but I like this setup for shooting portrait-oriented shots (which I typically do). I'll share more about orienting your subject on backdrops someday soon, and it might make more sense to you then! But basically, I like horizontal lines on my styling surfaces so there aren't distracting angles/distortion in the vertical lines of the planks as they head towards the vanishing point. Horizontal lines on the board will make the vanishing point lines less obvious in a photo.
Step One: Lay out the wood planks beside each other, allowing for small gaps between each one. You should sand them first, then lay the stretchers across the planks, situating them at the edge of the planks. This will allow you to use both sides of the board as a backdrop in different colors.
Step Two: Connect the stretchers to the planks.
If you're using wood screws, first drill pilot holes into the wood and use a countersink bit to recess the screws. Countersinking the screws will keep them from scratching whatever surface you place the backdrop on. That's also why I recommend using soft wood for the stretchers.
If you're using sheet metal screws, be careful not to screw them in too far. They can drill their own pilot holes, which means if you keep pushing, they will keep going through the wood and out the other side, becoming jammed into your stretchers in the process. Sheet metal screws are advantageous though, because they can be recessed without needing to use a countersink bit first.
Step Three: Stain or paint the wood in whatever color you'd like to show through the top coat of paint.
I wanted a rich wood color and a rough texture, so I used cedar planks, which are more rough sawn than the other wood at the store. (Reclaimed pallets are great for this project for that reason.) Cedar has a rich color to it, so the flip side of my backdrop will give my photos a wonderfully warm backdrop. I used natural stain on the cedar because, in my opinion, it doesn't need a stain with any tint to it. Different types of wood display the same stain differently, so make sure you consider that when selecting stain.
Now that you've made the base of your backdrop, it's time to distress it! This is a great technique for any wood project that you'd like to give the look of aged paint.
Step Four: Wipe a generous amount of petroleum jelly on any part of the wood you'd like to be distressed. I focused on the area where the planks meet, and also randomly wiped some in streaks across the planks.
Step Five: Paint the board with two coats of paint or until no more wood tones show through. Do not use primer— you want the paint to come off easily in the next step.
Step Six: After the paint has cured for at least a few hours, you can begin scraping it with a metal spatula to remove the paint. I focused on the areas where the planks meet (where I had put the petroleum jelly), and then lightly scraped across the surface of each plank. Paint would easily come off where I had put the jelly.
After scraping the wood, I sanded some spots across the planks with a rough sandpaper. I didn't want to overdo it, but I did want to reveal some of the wood tones underneath without stripping off the paint completely with the spatula.
Take some pictures with your new backdrop, and if you're not satisfied with the paint job, you can add more paint or take more away. It's a very forgiving process! You may want to seal it with a matte polyurethane to avoid more peeling of the paint— but that's up to you! I suggest not using a shiny sealer though, or you'll get glare in your photos.
When you're finished, why not flip over the backdrop and do a paint or stain treatment on the other side? I haven't done the reverse side of mine yet, but I'm thinking I'll do something with a really dark stain and black paint for some moodier photos.
Now that I've been using wood plank surfaces for my photos, I couldn't imagine my blogging life without them! They're definitely worth the bit of effort to create, and yes— they're even worth the bit of storage they take up in my coat closet! What color would you paint your backdrop? -Mandi
P.S. The ingredients shown in the first picture go together to make my very favorite cocktail! Check out the recipe here at my personal blog.
Credits // Author and Photography: Mandi Johnson. Photos edited with Stella and Valentine of the Signature Collection.
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